Christmas in the Dhabs

Last year, we arrived in Abu Dhabi on December 17 and spent the holidays in a (super awesome) hotel, relaxing by the pool and venturing out to explore our new city. It didn't feel much like Christmas, even though we had a tiny tree and I hung our stockings. We even watched Miracle on 34th Street on Christmas Eve.

Sunrise right through our main windows

This year, we spent some quiet days at home after our early December travels (more on those later) and it was perfect. We didn't have a big tree (they're available here, imported and very expensive, or the hypermarkets have faux trees available) but I threw up our stockings again, displayed holiday cards from friends (the best!), and tossed a poinsettia on the table (it's still around and I still love it).

Homemade Christmas cards this year

I had some friends over one afternoon to back Christmas cookies and we made sugar cookies for the first time. We also made my grandma's peanut cluster recipe since it's the easiest and definitely reminds me of holidays back home. The sugar cookies took forever (who knew you had to make the dough, freeze the dough, bake the cookies, cool the cookies, then decorate the cookies?) but we had a really good time frosting them. I ended up sending most of them home with Julie and Kirsten and delivering a huge plate to the security guards in our building in an effort to save myself from eating 10,000 calories a day. I needn't have worried so much, though, because Hubs took care of most of the leftovers for me.  

Julie, hard at work

On Christmas Eve, Hubs and I sat on our balcony and drank hot cocoa before making dinner and settling in to watch my family's favorite movie, Christmas Vacation. It's also the one Hubs and I watched on our first date in Colorado Springs in 2000- so long ago! I'm happy he loves it at much as I do because it's a must for me every year.

In a real show of holiday spirit, Hubs let me have carols on all day, every day while he was home for the long weekend. This is how I know he loves me. 

Mom's traditional wrapping and hints

 We spent Christmas morning eating a late brunch, opening gifts, and then reading on the couch until our families woke up and we could talk. It was so nice to relax and reflect on the past year and how lucky we've been. I'm looking forward to being closer to our families next year- and all that 2015 will bring!

Our traditional Christmas breakfast- french toast casserole

I hope you and yours had a wonderful celebration and that 2015 is off to a good start!

When in Spain...

The view from our apartment's balcony- the Alhambra

Very early in this assignment, I met Julie- and I'm so glad I did. We exchanged numbers right away and had our first "date" at a yoga class on the beach. Except the yoga teacher never showed up so we rolled out our mats and just practiced ourselves. What could have been a very awkward time wound up being the first of many, many wonderful afternoons together.

Busy morning along the water

Since then, we've spent countless hours cooking, crafting, drinking, and traveling together. What's even better is that our husbands get along so well and the four of us have a great time together.

Julie and Eion invited us to their wedding fiesta in Granada, Spain and about 3 minutes after the invite arrived I was booking tickets. We'd never been to Granada but ever since my college roommate studied there and fell in love with the city, I'd wanted to go. It was stunning and the whole wedding weekend was one of the most fun I've ever been to.

Painting the cathedral

Granada is in southern Spain and is the capital of the province. It's a very old city with Roman and Moorish influences. You've probably heard about or seen photos of the Alhambra, a stunning fortress/palace that is a must-see. Hubs and I were so excited about the wedding- and the cool weather, being able to hold hands in public, and the food!

Walking paella to the cafe

Julie's and Eion's guests came from across the world- literally. We were so honored to meet their families and friends and had a fantastic time getting to know people throughout the weekend.

View of Granada from the Alhambra

It's hard to say what was my favorite- the Alhambra tour, the tapas crawl, the paella dinner in the country, or the actual wedding, which was held inside the Alhambra grounds. If Hubs and I ever renew our vows, I'm thinking a weekend like this...

Afternoon on our balcony in the Albayzin neighborhood

When we left Abu Dhabi, it was still extremely hot and humid. I cannot explain how happy it made me to be able to run outside under a bright blue sky and then put on pants and a jacket. The cool, crisp air was amazing and made my little heart sing.

View of the countryside from the rehearsal dinner

 I can't believe how fortunate I am to have met Julie and have had her around during this year. She's so thoughtful and makes me laugh. She's also always up to meet for shwarma, which I appreciate very much. They're off for crazy adventures in Africa next year, but I know we'll stay in touch and plan to meet- maybe yearly in Granada?

Sampling chocolate and churros- every bit as delicious as it looks!

My favorite activity- coffee at an outdoor cafe

 Congrats, Jules and E! We love you! Chupitos for all!

Beautiful bride

Ah, Salalah

In the misty morning fog

 One of the best parts about living in Abu Dhabi is getting a chance to explore the rest of the Gulf. Like Europe, where it is so easy to hop in the car or catch a quick flight and be in another country an hour or two later, travel in this region is quick and easy. So far this year, I've had a chance to visit Bahrain, Qatar, and now Oman. Next on the list are Jordan and back to Oman, our next door neighbor.

Mughsail blowhole

Everyone we've met who has spent time in Oman raves about the place - to a person. All we've heard is that the people are so friendly, the cities are gorgeous and steeped in tradition, and the landscape is breathtaking. Some friends suggested a quick trip to southern Oman over the Fourth of July, and we quickly agreed and booked tickets and a hotel. Bonus? The Dhofar Region is about 20 degrees cooler in the summer because of the rain and mist. 

Rocks overlooking the blowholes

Salalah is the capital of the Dhofar Region and home to Wadi Darbat (a green river valley), Marneef Caves and blow holes, some stunning mountain drives, a delightful souk in the middle of the city, and more than a few historical forts. It was the perfect spot for a three day trip - enough to see but not so overwhelming that we felt we had to get up and go from early morning to late at night. Because we traveled during Ramadan, our hotel was really quiet. Like, really quiet. We had the pool to ourselves on two afternoons and were the only ones in the restaurant for breakfast. It was almost eery, but apparently the hotel is fully booked from Eid (end of Ramadan) through the rest of the summer. Pays to travel during the low season!

Camel crossing

Salalah definitely has a small town, laid back atmosphere. No huge skyline with glimmering buildings. Although we were only a few short flights from home, I definitely felt we were a world away.

One of the best parts about Salalah was all the outdoor activities. Since summer hit the UAE, I've been spending a lot of time indoors. It was so nice to walk around, hike a little, and not sweat my face off. One our first day, we arrived pre-sunrise and set off to see the blow holes on the southern end of the town. We didn't quite get a sunrise since it was so foggy, but it was a quiet and peaceful way to ease into the trip after not sleeping at all on the plane. Since it was Ramadan, our choices for breakfast were limited and we chose a hotel buffet and stayed for hours, drinking coffee and scarfing waffles. Afterwards, I finally felt normal again! Thank goodness for bottomless coffee.

Choosing our coconuts

 Once caffeinated, I was willing to entertain the idea of one of Salalah's museums. One the way, we pulled over at a fruit stand to grab some drinking coconuts and bananas. In Abu Dhabi you can occasionally find a small, one-off fruit seller on the side of the road, but in Salalah there was a whole stretch of street lined with little fruit shacks. We we thrilled (and the bananas were great!).

Simple and gorgeous museum entrance

 We stopped in to the Museum of the Frankincense Land to learn more about Salalah's history. It was so well done, with many examples of traditional fishing and trading boats and tons of archaeological finds from centuries ago. The area surrounding Salalah is also known for its frankincense trees and, thus, for the oil and resin used to perfume homes. It was fascinating to learn about the Sultanate and more about the Gulf - I highly recommend the museum!
 

So. Much. Food.

 To round out the day, we spent some time at the pool and then enjoyed Omani food for dinner. We ate on the floor in a small room with pillows around the sides (pretty typical for this area) and tried some fish dishes and curry. Some of the dishes were good (E's lamb stew got thumbs up and one of the fish curries was fine) but we struck out with a fish soup. One bite and I knew that was all I could stomach. We didn't go back for more the next night, but I'm glad we tried once!

Full view of the Travertine Curtain from the bottom - the trees on the top are full sized,
giving some sense of how big the cliff is

The next day Hubs and I went for a cool run around the hotel to the beach, and it was the best way to start the day. I really miss being outside and running in someplace other than a gym, on a treadmill. We hopped in the trusty rental car after breakfast and set off for the Travertine Curtain first. A quick walk later and we were craning our necks up at the enormous cliffs. The curtain formed when water rich in carbon dioxide ate away at the rock, causing interesting holes and crevasses before the rock was redeposited into stalactites. Or so I've read. At any rate, it's unlike anything I've seen.

Edge of the Curtain

After admiring it from below, we drove to the top and hiked to the edge. The landscape was incredible and the views even better. It was still a bit foggy, but I can imagine one could see all the way to the coast on a clear day.

Wadi Darbat

A short drive away was Wadi Darbat, a river that feeds the area and eventually flows into the Gulf. The landscape was soooo green, it could have been Colorado or maybe even the midwest. Aside from some paddle boats, there isn't much to do at the Wadi (no swimming unless you're willing to brave a few nasty bugs) so we set sail for the next site pretty quickly. 

Fishing dhows

My favorite part of the day was a quick stop in Mirbat, a fishing town with an active port. We got there just as one of the dhows was emptying its catch, and a crowd had gathered. I imagine a car full of Americans doesn't show up often so we got our fair share of stares. Only one guy approached us and wanted to know about our religious background, why we live in the UAE, and if we could introduce him to American women. He also asked me to take his picture, which isn't a request I get often, and offered to help us buy a fish or two. We passed since we had our hearts set on Indian food for dinner, but I'm sure he could have helped negotiate a great deal!

Watching the catch come in

Our new friend

One last stop to see Sumhuram, a 3rd century BC settlement and trading village, before we called it a day. Several camel herds were heading home, too, and we had to share the road with the tiniest herder and his animals.

Running home

Our last adventure was a little shopping in the souk, which came alive after sunset when fasting was finished for the day. Omani men wear intricately embroidered hats that often match their colorful dishdasha. Emirati men almost always wear white khanduras (the floor-length, long-sleeved gown) and a white gutrah, or head covering. Seeing the Omani men in different colors with their gorgeous hats was fun. We did a little browsing in the souk, getting tips from men about which hats were well-made and which prices were reasonable. I asked the young man in the this picture which design was best, and he (smartly) told me, "whatever you prefer."

Choosing our favorites

I can't wait to explore more of Oman and am thankful it's so close!

Blue Water, Fast Bikes, Soft Sand, Can't Lose

On the "road" from Praslin to La Digue

Ah, the Seychelles.

Waiting for the ferry

 No, really. This place was paradise.

Settling in at Grand Anse

We've been wanting to go to the Seychelles for years, but it's so far away from the States that it was not possible. Once we got to Abu Dhabi, it was first on Hubs' list and after we checked India off, it was his turn to pick. 

Heading to the north side

 I didn't put up a fight.

Tiny church just off the road

 The Seychelles are a group of 115 granite islands in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Kenya and Tanzania. Just a short flight from the UAE, a hop in a twin otter, and a ferry ride to La Digue, our small island home for a few days.

Takeaway, Seybrew, and the World Cup

La Digue is the third largest (inhabited) island in the country, but it's only 4 square miles and a few thousand people live there year round. The Seychelles are home to some of the world's most beautiful and photographed beaches, and La Digue gets to brag about having Anse Source d'Argent, a spectacular stretch of white sand and impressive granite boulders. We spent an incredible late afternoon and sunset on the beach, which we had to ourselves (it pays to go during the off season!). Still, the other beaches on the island were as wonderful and gorgeous. La Digue is heaven!

Hiking from Grand Anse to Petite Anse

This way

 La Digue is a sleepy little place with a handful of takeaway restaurants, some fabulous fruit stands, one big grocery store, a block with a few shops, and one port. There are paved roads and a few trucks and cars, but everyone rides bicycles around. I initially thought that perhaps it'd be too quiet, that we would want to ferry to either Praslin or Mahe for a day to wander around a town. 

My new little love

Definitely not- La Digue was so relaxing, so peaceful and I never wanted to leave.

Petite Anse, all to ourselves

Each morning we ate breakfast on our veranda - fresh, local fruit and eggs and juice and coffee with a side of The New Yorker - before deciding which part of the island we wanted to explore. Biking around was just as fun as sitting on the beaches. The island is so green and, although humid, it was much cooler than current temps in the UAE.

Simon's Fruit Shop

Our first morning we ran up to Nid d’Aigle, the highest point on the island. It was so nice to be able to run outside after miles and miles on the treadmill. One of the best discoveries on that first day was Simon's Fruit Shop, a tiny stand just before the last hill on the road to Grand Anse. We stopped every day were were there to get whatever fruit shake Simon was whirling up and his take on the previous night's World Cup matches. On one of our stops, he sent us off with a whole fresh coconut, sliced for us to eat on Anse Cocos, which ended up being our favorite beach. His shop was decorated with drawings he'd done with his daughter, who helped serve when things got really busy. If you're ever on La Digue, make sure you visit Simon - time spent in his quiet presence will be one of your favorite island memories.

The famous Anse Source d'Argent at sunset

It wasn't very busy when we were there, which was so nice. On Grand Anse, Petite Anse, and Anse Cocos - beaches on the southeast side of the island - each a bay about half mile long, we saw at most 30 people. We spent two afternoons on Anse Cocos with no one else in sight. I swear there is nothing better than the sound of the ocean, swaying in the hammock, reading a page turner (side note: go read Shantaram).

Anse Cocos

Granite-lined Anse Cocos

The water was a bit rough and we heard numerous warnings about currents. Each bay was definitely swimmable, though, and perfect for a dip to cool off after biking the island's hills.

Breakfast in the garden

We spent one morning snorkeling off the shores of a private island currently under development. We saw a ton of beautiful jellyfish, some huge rays, a tiny shark, and, of course, a million colorful fish. I scare easily in the water (but love the beach and the shallow shore...) but Hubs could snorkel and swim for hours, and often does. We carted our snorkel gear all around the island for days (including one slightly dangerous scramble over some rather large boulders with me in flip flops and a sundress - not our best move) but it was worth it for that one morning.

After I called it a day

La Digue has quite a few places to stay, mostly family-run guest houses. We chose a charming place with several new rooms and couldn't have been happier. One of the highlights was having the matriarch cook us dinner one night - a perfectly done catch-of-the-day and eggplant.

Rush hour in La Passe, La Digue

The Seychellois are friendly and fun to speak with. The vast majority of tourists are European and, increasingly, Russian. Everyone was interested in how and why two Americans had landed in La Digue. It was so interesting to talk about the changes that have happened in the country recently.

Out for the morning catch

On our last day, we retraced our steps from La Digue to Praslin to Mahe. We had hours before our flight back to Abu Dhabi so we stored our bags, hopped a bus, and wandered around town for a bit. After a few days on La Digue, Victoria seemed positively bustling. We found the market, had a snack, then made a beeline for Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinyagar Temple.

Detail of the inner doors

I was completely blown away - the Temple was stunning. 

I walked around in awe and felt so lucky to be there.

In the market

One for the books, for sure. 

Thanks, La Digue.

The last sunset